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C. AND A. MARCHESE. PROCESSDF INSERTING DPENWORK 1N FABRICS.

APPucA'rloN men sPT.1.19|.

1,313,198. 123mm Aug. 12, 1919.

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STATES PATENT oFFIon CONCETTINA MARCHESE AN D ANTONIETTA MARCHESE, F BROOKLYN, N'EW YORK.

PBGCESS QF INSERTING OPEI'WORK Il? FABRICS.

To all whom t may concern Be it known that we, Genom-HNA MAR- onnsn and ANTONIETTA Mnncrmsn, subjects of the King of Italy, both residing in the city of New York, borough of Brooklyn, county of Kings, and Siete of New York,

have invented a certain new end usenled number of special etteclunents to hosiery legging machines during the knitting` Operntion. The object of the invention is toprovide e process whereby open-work designs may he applied to hosiery after seid hosiery has been finished plein, und in such manner that the elasticity and durability of the hosiery nre not impaired. Features of the invention, other then those specified, will be apparent from the hereinafter detailed description taken in conjunction with the accompanying drewlin the accompanying dre-wing we have shown, dingremmnticnlly, three consecutive steps in the production of on open-svorl portion in e stocking, which steps are cerried out in accordance with the present invention. It will be understood, however,

that the stitches employed may he varied to produce different patterns, and that the showing made is, therefore, illustrativo, only, and does not define the limits of the invention.

Figure 1 shows e portion of e drop-stitch fabric, such as is generally employed in ho- Siery construction, showingr the First step in the process. The fnhric is shown on :t greatly 'enlarged scale to illustrate the Weave; and' Figs. 2 and 3 indicate subsequent steps in the process.

As hosiery is generally constructed from e drop-stitch fabric, we have chosen, for the purpose of illustration., the applica-tion of Specification of Letters Patent.

Appliction tiled September 7, 1916.

Patented Allg. l2, 1919.

smal N0. 119,903.

the invention to such environment. Asis weil known, e drop-stitch 4fehric embodies a, large number of interlocked loops arranged in series, so that the .consecutive Aloops of each series ere locked in position by the next preceding loops. If any one loopbecomes roken or disrupted, the-,well known run occurs. That is to say, iff one of the loops Ais broken, the next adjacent loop ofthe series is released, and this, in turn, releases the next loop, und so on, so that the loops' become straightened out, lose their interlocked relation, and that portieri of the stocking Where the run has occurred embodies, merely, e plurality of parallel threads which ure readily discernible from the, remainder of the febric and are generally considered a detriment in stocking construction, usually occurringr through excessive strain brought about by wear.

This well known disadvantage 'best illustratos thc sturtiug point of the present procsinrc the first step in the process is to produce e run in that portion of the stock'-i mgf where it is desired to position the openwork. This is clearly shown in Fig. 1, the loop e having heen cut et el to release the adjacent loops for the desired distance. In other words, the first step in the processcon siste in cutting` one oi' theloops and nllow- 85 ing the run to progress as far es thef loop b, the distance between the loops a endo being,r the desired length of the openwork portion to be produced. The transverse threads which previously formed the loops which were meintened in interlocked relation by loop u become straightened out end form the substantially parallel threads d.

The subsequent. steps in the process corr sist in reinorein loo b so that runnin g P g beyond the predetermined point is preclud-` ed, reinforcing the loops et the other end of the run, including broken loop a, and gethering together, generally in Series, the threads c to produce the openuvorl portion. These subsequent steps may he accomplished either hy nmchinery or by hand, and an unlimited variety of open-work designs or patterns muy result, which patterns or designs may be of :my color desired and may be produced in' thread either the seme in texture and materiel es that of the stocking or y of different texture and material. Y For the purpose of illustration, e showing is mede es accomplished'by hand, although lo it will be manifest that the same result could be produced mechanically. The path which the operator may cause the working thread to take is shown in heavy lines in 5 Fig. 2, where said working thread is desigmated, generally, D. The first step preferably consists in starting with the thread at d', and making a few cross-stitches, at E, to

lock loop b and the adjacent loops of its L0 series against further running. The thread is then carried by a lead e to the remote side of an adjacent series of loops, and the parallel threads C are caught up in series by a plurality of loops f formed in the workingV thread D, as shown. Thread D is then carried by a lead g into juxtaposition with the loop a, and a few cross-Stitches are iliade at this point, designated G, to lock loop a in place. The thread is then led to the remote side of the other adjacent series of loops and a plurality of loops h, corresponding to loops f, and similarly sitioned, are formed, the working thread bein thereafter preferably returned to point and a maple of stitches taken to preclude inadvertent releasing of the free end rl of working thread D. In order that the functions of the Stitches of working thread D may be clear,.thcsc stitches are shown as very loose, i. e., not pulled tight, in Fig. 2, whereas, in F ig. 3 the stitches f and h are shown as pulled tight to draw the threads c, which they embrace, into intimate relation to pro'- vide a distinct openwork portion, as differentiated from the remainder of the fabric, where all of the, transverse threads are spaced at substantially equal distances.

The foregoing,r manner of manipulating workingr thread D may be accomplished by hand, with either a. single or a double thread, the operator employing a needle. Thls manner of producing,v the desired end is the simplest method of produclng the openwork portions and, at the same time, precluding' further runs in that portion of the stockingi This simple manipulation of the thread is chosen for illustrative purposes, although it will be manifest that the crossstitching at E and (i may be of an ornamental nature; that is to say, it may partake of the form of a star, ,group of leaves, an arrow-head, clocks, or other elements of design Moreover, working thread D may be worked into lace in the open-work portions thus formed either by hand or niachinery. In this n'mnncr, innumerable designs and patterns may be produced.

It will, of course, be understtxnl that, the process may be repeated at dili'erent points in the stocking, to collectively produit the desired artistic ciet. It will further appear that the open-work portion may extend over more than three series of dropstitches, if Wider omen-work portions are deired. This bc accomplished through the use of one or a plurality of working threads, the manipulation of which may be carried out in various ways without departing'from thc spirit of this invention.

It will appear that, from the very nature O the production of the open-work Dortlons as described, the elasticity of the stocking, as a whole, is not in the least imu paired, and, as the drop-stitches adjacent the runs initiallyr produced are adequately caught up during the process, the progression of such runs beyond the predetermined points is precluded. No material is actually cut out of the stocking, so that said stocking` retains all its original strength and elasticity and is, in fact, rendered stronger by the working thread and embroidery or lace-work produced thereby.

In the manipulation of thread D as described, the first stitch taken is that at the finishing end of the run, but it will be manifest. that, if desired, the first stitch might be made at the point where it is desired to start the run, the run thereafter produced,` and a few stitches taken after it has pro- 9o guessed for the desired distance, said lastmentioned stitches being to stop the run at the proper point and preclude its progressing further. The stitches for gathering together thc threadsto produce the open-work may next be applied.

he present invention, while particularly adapted for producing open-work in fiuished hosiery, may be carried out in any fabric wherein a run may be, produced, and is not limited entirely to the hosiery art. Thus, through the practice of the present invention, open-work portions may be provided in sweaters, crocheted fabrics. fabric olores, and various other articles which will be U15 manifest to those skilled in the art. The present invention, therefore, is not restricted to the specific environment set forth or to the particular manipulation of the stitches specifically described and shown in the draw- 11o ings, but is to be understood to be as broadly novel as is commensurate with the appended claims.

Having thus fully described the invention, what we claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Pat/ent, 1s:

1. Tihe method of producing open-work in fabrics which consists in producing a run in a drop stitch or knitted fabric, checking the run at the opposite ends thereof to preclude said run from extending beyond predetermined limits, and gathering the threads which extend across said run to form the open-work portion.

The method of producing open-work in 12F fabrics which consists in producing a run in a drop stitch or knitted fabric, checking the run at the opposite ends thereof, by drawing the stitches of the fabric 'together at, these points, to preclude said run from. Iso

extending beyond predetermined limits, and gathering the threads which extend across said run to form the open-work portion.

3. The method of producing open-Work in drop stitch fabrics which consists in producing a run in the fabric, encircling said run with stitching for the purpose of checking the run to preclude it from extending beyond predetermined limits, and leaving the stitches which extend across the run intact.

4. The method of producing open-work in fabrics which consists in producing a run in a drop stitch or knitted fabric, encirclin said run with stitching for the purpose o checking the run to preclude said run from extending beyond predetermined limits, and gathering the threads which extend across said run to form the open-Work portion.

f 5. The method of producing open-work in drop stitch fabrics which consists in producing a run in the fabric, checking said run at its opposite ends to preclude it from extending beyond predetermined limits, and leaving the stitches which extend across the run intact.

6. The method of producin open-Work in fabrics which consists in pro uclng a run in a drop stitch or knitted fabric, providing said run with encircling embroidery to preclude the run from extending beyond predetermined iimits, and gathering the threads which extend across said run to forni the open-Work portion.

7. The method of producing open-work in fabrics which consists in producing a run in a drop stitch or knitted fabric, inserting in the fabric, at the end of the run, a plurality of stitches to check the run, and gathering the threads which extend across said run to form the open-work portion.

S. The method of producing open-work in fabrics which consists in arting one of the stitches in a drop-stitch abrio, producing a run therein, checking the run at its opposite ends to preclude the same from extendin beyond predetermined limits, and gathering the sti-tches which extend across said run to produce the open-Work portion.

9. The method of producing open-Work in fabrics which consists in producing a run in a drop stitch or knitted fabric, checking the run at its op osite ends to preclude said run from exten ing beyond predetermined limits, and positioning stitches within the run in such manner as to Vproduce the openwork portion.

10. The method of producing open-work in fabrics which consists in disruptin one of the threads in the rib of a rib abrio to produce a run longitudinally of the rib, applying stitches to the ribat the opposite ends of the run to preclude said run from extending beyond predetermined limits, and gathering the threads which extend across said run to form the open-Work portion.

coNcE'r'rlNA MARCHESE. An'roNIET'IAI MARCHESE.

Witnesses:

MoLENE GIUssErrn, J AMES W. WHITE. 

